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Both because I was man-splaining her hometown to her, and because I was claiming that something labeled Premier Cru could be equal to a Grand Cru – absolute heresy in Burgundy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo now, I will attempt to do the same for you, but trust me, the bottle of wine at the end of this epistle makes the explanation thoroughly worth it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe all know that Burgundy has a hierarchy of vineyards – regional, village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru – with each step up implying a much more specific geography, and with it, a major jump up in quality. While there are several Grand Crus among Burgundy’s white wines, the top of the top of the Grand Cru vineyards is Le Montrachet. Grand Cru is almost an understatement, it simply doesn’t get any better than this. One of Le Montrachet’s first admirers, the Abbé Arnoux, noted way back in 1728 that “this wine has qualities of which neither the Latin nor the French language can explain… I am not able to express the delicacy and excellence.”\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIndubitably, our own Thomas Jefferson, President and wine lover, observed that at the time Le Montrachet was selling at $1,200 francs pre case, while Meursault Premier Cru Goutte d’Or only $150. And what that means for us is that unless you’re willing to pay a Presidential price, Le Montrachet is outta reach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOr is it?\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnd this is where En Remilly starts to strut its stuff. If you zoom in on a map of Le Montrachet (they are all over the internet), you can see its gentle slope, and then a road that cuts through the vineyard as the slope climbs. Now look up that short little climb to the top of the hill – that is En Remilly. That’s right, En Remilly is the crown of Le Montrachet – and if that’s not enough, it touches Chevalier Montrachet, another Grand Cru.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNow, if any Burgundians read this they are libel to issue a fatwa against me. But, while we can see that these two vineyards are distinct, we can also observe that they are an easy two minute walk from one another. And further, in this glass of wine, Sylvian Langoureau’s Premier Cru En Remilly, we can observe just how stunning white burgundy can be:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe wine opens with gorgeous aromas of Meyer lemon dusted with Marcona almonds and then ever-so-slightly candied, bringing out a divine combination of fruit and nutty aromas. From there, touches of vanilla wafer, cream and hints of gingerbread. On the palate, the wine is ready and open for business, still having all of its beautiful burgundian baby fat – a touch of unctuous fruit on the mid-palate that rounds it into perfect balance. 2020 was a low yield vintage (so we will probably sell out of this wine very quickly) but it resulted in wines of extremely high quality – through the mid palate and the finish you will notice this wine’s fine tension and filiagree, its length and intensity, and its striking dramatic energy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis will be our eighth vintage of working with Sylvian Langoureau, and while his winery is small, the wines he producers are indeed mighty. No, this isn’t Le Montrachet, but the stardust that blows up the hill makes this wine absolute magic. 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In 1957 the Pernots had the foresight to start buying as many Puligny-Montrachet vineyards as they could. These vineyards were already planted and remain in good health to this day. Thus, the domaine makes claim to some of the oldest vineyards in all of white Burgundy, as well as the oldest average age for vines across the entire region. The oldest vines at the domaine are 90 years, and the average is 70.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMost of these grapes are sold to negociants, a practice that continues to this day. As Jasper Morris MW notes: “At present, 80% of the wines are sold on to extremely fortunate negociants in Beaune. However, the 20% that Paul retains and bottles himself \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cu\u003eis the absolute crème de la crème and quintessentially representative of Puligny at its best.\u003c\/u\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cu\u003e”\u003c\/u\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLet me dig down into Burgundy terminology a bit to illustrate just how good you’re getting with this bottle.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBurgundy has a hierarchy of vineyards. The most generic are labeled “Bourgogne,” meaning they could be located anywhere in Burgundy.In the case of large negociants, the vineyards are usually in poorer quality southern regions like the Macon or Beaujolais. The next level up are wines labeled with a village name. There are lots of villages, but in our case, Puligny-Montrachet is one of the best. Next are Premiers Crus vineyards, and then finally Grands Crus vineyards top it off.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNow let’s go back to Paul. He is a substantial landowner in the Grands Crus Vineyards of Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. He is the majority landowner of the Premier Cru vineyard Pucelles. All of his land is in Puligny-Montrachet, and it is all old vines. Further, of the wines he makes, he cuts off the bottom 80% of his production and sells it off. This is from the best vineyards, the oldest vines, and culled from the best barrels of a master craftsman’s wine. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAnd there’s more with this very special bottle. Paul’s winery is downslope in Puligny-Montrachet, in a section where the water table is so high that he can’t build cellars. Consequently, he always releases his wines very fresh, right out of the gates. 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