2014 Joseph Burrier Chateau de Beauregard Pouilly Fuisse
If you did not believe in a Grand Cru, now there can be no doubt – in pocket rocket format
Frederic Marc Burrier, current winemaker and proprietor of Chateau de Beauregard, is a rather busy man. First, he is the leading proponent of classifying the vineyards of Pouilly Fuisse. That may sound like a lot of bureaucratic hooey, but to the winemakers of Pouilly Fuisse, it is not. They have long believed that the best of the best in Pouilly compete equally and successfully with Grand Cru Cote d’Or Burgundy, specifically Corton Charlemagne. As Andrew Jefford once penned, “Before, nobody believed Pouilly could come close to Corton Charlemagne – now nobody doubts it.” High praise for this “backyard” area.
Second, he manages over 40 individual plots of vines that his family has overseen for 500 years. It’s of course time-consuming to tend 40 equal and individual plots, but the weight of family history and the importance of the quality of the finished wine compels him to take the absolute upmost care.
And third, with those 40 plots, he is the leading proponent of sustainable, low intervention, no chemical intervention, long term reasonable agriculture. While eschewing such labels as natural or biodynamic, or even organic, he is creating environmental health with his work in the vineyards. And it shows in this wine:
The 2014 vintage is an elegant wine with all the power and minerality of a fantastic white Burgundy. It breathes with aromas of pear, white peaches and acacia flowers. These are joined by subtle notes of honey, apricot and grapefruit. On the palate, flavors of peaches, fresh almond, hazelnut, quince and toast evolve with the swirling of the glass. There is density, complexity, hints of dried fruits and honeycomb that layer in with its rich and succulent finish. To sum up – the perfect late summer pocket rocket: for when you want just a little, or just a little bit more, pocket rockets rule.
I love white Burgundy, and I adore Pouilly-Fuisse. Yet frankly, as prices have climbed, my interest has waned. So I was shocked when I saw the price of this Chateau Beauregard. I couldn’t resist, and neither should you.
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