2014 Domaine Blain Cote de Brouilly Les Jumeaux
Yesterday was the coming of Beaujolais Nouveau, one of Waterford’s least-liked wine holidays of the year. Least liked not because we don’t enjoy a delicious chance to get lit, but because the wine is often bad, and misrepresentative of this Beaucholic wine region.
In the 1970s, the history of Beaujolais split like a path in the woods. One path led to commercialized, manufactured wine; the other led to the pioneering of natural wine – to add nothing to grapes other than what Mother nature provides.
That spirit lives on in the Crus of Beaujolais – one might even posit this bottle as one of the Grands Crus of Beaujolais, and in the family making it, Domaine Blain. The Blain family has a sprawling (or at least three separate branches deep) business in Chassagne Montrachet. This, a tiny domaine located about 30 km south of all the other family homes, is their summer vacation retreat. This hidden gem is the exquisite Domaine Blain Cote de Brouilly Les Jumeaux:
A bedazzling perfume of ripe cranberries, fresh water, crushed rocks, lavender, raspberry and boysenberry. The palate has great depth but is also nervy, refreshingly delicate while also delivering great clarity. The wine revolves around its floral and fruit qualities, offering equal amounts of hedonistic and intellectual enjoyment. The finish wraps up in silky tannins and a kiss of spice, fully demonstrating that it’s from the granitic hilltop of the Cote de Brouilly. You might think that a Cru Beaujolais at 4 years of age is beginning to fade. And you would be wrong. I’ve had Cru Beaujolais at 30+ years old, and this titan is just beginning to let you know what life is all about.
One sip of this wine will show you that Cru Beajolais are world-class, sumptuous and completely engaging wines.
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