2015 Boncie “Le Trame” Chianti Classico
How can I summarize how good this wine is? I’ll try with this statement:
Chianti Classico is the Burgundy of Italy and this wine proves it.
I know, you don’t believe it. Chianti can be so many things – from red-colored water to Sangiovese blended with Cabernet and glossed with an oaky sheen. But when you get someone like Giovanna Morganti running her own three-acre vineyard, Chianti can really, truly become a wine of elegance and purely beautiful fruit, backed by a core of singing and vibrant acidity, along with a long, mineral depth. In other words, a fruit, acid and tannin composition that resembles Pinot Noir planted in Burgundy, with the pronounced aromas and length to back it up.
Giovanna Morganti’s father, Enzo Morganti, was a famous enologist in the 1960s, ’70s and ’80s in Chianti and was always a champion of the Sangiovese grape. While that gave Giovanna a tremendous love of Chianti and Sangiovese, this is not where she honed her masterful skills. Those came when the Consortio and San Felice asked her to run an experimental organic farm regenerating over 300 of Chianti’s indigenious varieties. When her father passed away leaving her with the three acre “Le Boncie” estate, Morganti jumped at the chance to transplant some of the strongest of the clones she was working with and create her own wine, La Trame (“The Intrigues”):
As is the case across so much of Europe’s vineyards, 2015 is a glorious rendition of this wine: At its dark crimson core is a depth of aromas that simply draws you into the glass, like breathing in the living Tuscan countryside – aromas of black cherry, plum, truffles, a hint of smoky meats and wild herbs all waft across the nose and onto the palate of the wine. The taste is refined and powerful, stating itself almost as a Brunello in a blind wine tasting. But whereas Brunello in its youth almost always shows its oak character, here instead is a profound level of minerality and tannic structure that immediately claims its Tuscan heritage. Almost all 2015s are open and expressive in their youth, and this is no exception. However, I have no doubt that this will last at least 15 more years in your cellar.
Maybe a comparison to sum up this epistle. There are two other Tuscan wines that I think achieve the highest of quality represented with La Trame. Soldera Case Basse Brunello and Montevertine. For those not in the know, don’t worry, there is a reason. Soldera and Montevertine are so sought after, so highly acclaimed, that only afew who ask for them are ever allocated them. While La Trame is not quite at that rarefied level – at least in terms of the commercial aspect – I believe it soon will be. Get yours before you never see it again!