2015 Chateau Moulin Borie
If there is one thing in wine-life that I love, it’s value. Sure, my wine budget is pretty darn big. As Thomas Jefferson famously noted of wine—and I wholeheartedly agree— “it is essential in life.” Yet even I can’t spring for First Growth Bordeaux every time I have a Prime Rib Roast. Yet I want that First Growth every time, even if my wallet cries “No, no!”
And amazingly enough, I believe Bruno Eugene Borie heard my cries – more than six years ago, and all the way across the Atlantic. Now, of course, Bruno Borie still wants my wallet – he’s the owner of Second Growth Ducru Beaucaillou in Saint Julien, Bordeaux. That wine is a mighty handful coming in at sometimes over $300 a bottle, and trust me, if you have the means, I highly recommend it (especially if someone else is paying!). But that is not what we are focused on today. Today we focus on his other property – Chateau Moulin-Borie.
Moulin-Borie is in Listrac, right in the heart of the Bordeaux appellation, just to the south of Saint Julien (which was probably why these vines aren’t incorporated into the much more valuable Ducru). It was here, around 1900, that the Bories settled down and started making Bordeaux on the classic gravelly soils. Bruno and the team from Ducru treat this wine with the same attention to detail – it’s made by the same team, at the same winery, as the great Second Growth wine. And it shows:
Sit back and relax as you open this bottle, because after pouring in to a proper-sized (meaning large) Bordeaux glass, a cascade of black cherry, currants, crème de cassis, cedar, violets and Damson plum emerges from the glass. The wine has a powerhouse palate of robust tannins, velvety layers of plump fruit, and the classic, nearly Graves-like sensation of cherry tobacco and stones. The finish revolves around the interplay of fruit and tannins, leading me to understand that at four years old, the blockbuster 2015 vintage is ready for business. But not to rush – this one’s going to go at least 15 more years in your cellar.
Just to reinforce the message here – 2015 is a great vintage in Bordeaux; next, it’s made by a team that’s used to building $300 bottles of wine, and finally, Wine Enthusiast has it quoted as a release price of $95, which would make sense given the association – and most places I see it online are listing between $42 – $45. I’m not sure how, but we got a sizzling, rock-bottom deal on this special Bordeaux. Don’t miss it.
“92 points. $95 release price.
“Produced by the winemaking team of Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou in Saint-Julien, this Borie family estate wine has been given a sophisticated touch. The wine is spicy, with wood aging evident but nicely judged. Ripe and fruity, with the potential from its tannins for aging, this is a wine to drink from 2022.” – Wine Enthusiast
“From the Listrac-Médoc wine region, Château Moulin-Borie 2015 is a beautifully balanced, dry, medium-plus-bodied plushy and spicy red Bordeaux blend of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot. Produced by the winemaking team of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou in Saint-Julien, look for spiced plum compote, blackberry, cassis, savoury herb and toasty oak spice finishing with fine, chewy tannins. Needs a bit of cellar time to tame the tannins, but showing quite beautifully now. Try in 2022.” – Natalie Maclean