2015 Clos des Fous Cabernet “Grillos Cantores”
Just when you thought Waterford couldn’t get any more esoteric! – We’re championing Chilean Cabernet! And expensive Chilean Cab at that!
Obviously were making fun of ourselves here but every joke holds a little bit of truth, Waterford is not the greatest fans of Chilean Cabernet, because, quite frankly, it’s usually “boring, industrial, green and overripe.”
Now those words are not ours, they are from the four pals at Clos de Fous Winery in Cauquenes, Maule. I quote them because, generally speaking, I share their views. Now some may disagree, but let’s lay that to side for a moment, and talk about this Group of Fools.
First off, all of these guys are famous in the world of wine. Two of them have PhDs in some form of wine work, and all four of them combined have made wine around the globe in fifty different countries. And not at random places like Chateau la Cashflow, but places like Roulot (Burgundy), Marengo (Barolo), Liger-Belair (also Burgundy), Chapter 24 (Oregon), Concha y Toro (Chile) and more. One partner in particular – Pedro Parra—has graced the cover of Wine Spectator and was interviewed by Forbes Magazine just six months ago. To sum up – these guys have talent.
So why the malicious quote? It because these gentlemen were tired of hearing those statements about Chilean Cabernet from the wine cognoscenti. But rather than just complain, they decided to do something about it – create their own winery “ in search of the Dark Side of the Moon” – and craft an amazing Chilean Cabernet. And this, I’ll tell you, is just a stunner.
Take note – this is six-year-old Chilean Cabernet right in the prime of its life, and it’s going to announce that to you right from the cork pull: pronounced aromas of violets, red and purple flowers, and cherries come wafting out of the bottle to fill the room. It does, to my nose and palate, have a bit of the Chilean “green” aroma, but here it’s mellowed and darkened down into a black cherry character, almost like if you were picking the cherries right from the tree, their leaves rustling in the wind beside you. In a word, it’s a super complex wine and I believe if poured blind, many would think it’s mature Bordeaux. On the palate the wine is completely harmonious, rounded, soft and generous. It’s deliciously mature and ready to drink now.
This is, I must admit, probably the best Chilean Cabernet I’ve ever had. It’s not trying to emulate Napa with concentration and oak, nor Bordeaux with savory and tannins – it’s something unique, and gorgeous. If you love Cabernet, you need this wine in your life.