2016 Domaine Parent Red Bourgogne “Selection Pomone”
Here are some huge reasons to buy this wine.
First, it’s awesome red Burgundy. It’s muscular, deep and rich, and it expresses style, clarity and elegance. It is more than you could ever ask for in a bottle of Burgundy.
Second, it’s from 2015. In this vintage “the wines have a presence, a life if you will, that is rarely seen and makes them wonderfully satisfying,” Anne Parent notes.
Third, it’s named after Pomona, the Roman goddess of fruitful abundance. And who doesn’t want to party like a goddess, or with one?
Finally, this “Bourgogne Selection Pomone” is actually this: 10% Premier Cru Pommard Noizons, 20% Ladoix Premier Cru, and the balance all from older vineyards (70+ years) from the “correct” side of the Route des Grands Crus in Pommard Village.
Let’s unpack the somewhat complicated last point a bit to understand why this wine is such a steal:
Most “Bourgogne” is generic – it can come from anywhere across all of Burgundy. Because the region is generic, the French would consider Bourgogne to be the least significant Pinot Noir in Burgundy. However, 70% of this wine comes from the Village of Pommard. “Village” wines are from a specific village. The tighter the geographic designation, the higher the quality. Then, 30% of this wine comes from premiers crus vineyards – higher quality still, and second only to the famed Grands Crus. As Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate sums this wine up, “this ‘basic’ red Burgundy punches at a high village cru level.”
The 2015 vintage opens like a Pommard – black cherry fruit, bramble, spice and mineral tension across the depths of the wine. This is big-boned Burgundy, and all of the bottles I have had take a while to open up. Put the wine in a decanter for an hour or two, or start with a glass at lunch to finish with dinner. Don’t underestimate its power. Yet with that power comes an imminently pleasurable sense of balance and poise. There is no need to rush a glass (or a bottle), because as it unfolds, the warmth of its complexity is revealed. I had the pleasure of drinking a bottle of 1964 a while back and it was in prime form.
Take a look at the price of village level Burgundy, or premier cru Burgundy – from an exceptional producer in a fantastic vintage. Then take a drink of this. For what’s in the glass, you’re getting this Pinot Noir for a song.