2017 Domaine du Clos des Aumones Vouvray
Always overdelivering and underpriced? It’s hard to believe but Vouvray, and Chenin Blanc in general, always overdelivers.
It doesn’t matter what you’re looking for. It’s wine-geek terroir-focused wine that truly expresses the place it’s from. It’s a scrumptiously rich and smooth white to charm Grandma. The perfect pairing wine for the fall table, as well as a treasure in your cellar for decades to come. That’s Vouvray!
And today we are offering Philippe Gaultier’s brilliant Clos des Aumones, a single parcel right in the heart of Vouvray. The Clos, rising above the river to the to the heart of Vouvray’s plateau, is endowed with deep, almost purely chalk soils. This allows a longer hang time that develops deep and substantial flavors, but without the accumulation that might occur in California, with say the grape Chardonnay. Chenin perfectly balances the terroir, and fourth-generation-winemaker Philippe brings in grapes that are the perfect and harmonious balance of fruit, savory, aromatic length and finish.
This wine is an “oh, wow.”
It bursts from the glass with an explosive array of aromas – peach, Asian pear, touches of southeast-Indian spices such as ginger, kaffir and lemongrass. The palate has weight, but it’s smooth, too, making this a wine for everyone, not just the wine geeks. The chalk soils add a counterpoint of vibrancy, giving the wine a beautiful structure and balance. The finish is dry and lingering, with a hint of rosewater.
You can, of course, drink a wine like this on its own and be perfectly content. But it will take the simplest of foods and make them extraordinary – serve with an herb goat cheese and warm baguette and you’ll have a match made in heaven. Or go for a French style Thanksgiving – celery root soup with black truffles, roasted turkey with shallot and oyster dressing, savory bread pudding with leeks and thyme, gratinée of scalloped potatoes and Comte, and finish with an apple-carrot salad. This wine will crown your French, or American, feast!
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