2017 Domaines de Granges Pouilly Fuisse
Pouilly-Fuisse is one of the most famous regions in all of Burgundy. Justifiably so, because here the white wines are fresh and luscious, dry and structured, as well as full-fruited and powerful.
Unfortunately, their fame also comes at a price – to us. Over the years, as Pouilly-Fuisse has grown more and more famous, the wines have become more and more expensive. Yet I have a deal for you – one of the region’s leading vintners at an exceptional price: Domaine des Granges.
Yannick Paquet, the grandson now in charge of Domaine des Granges, practices what his grandfather preached – that the best of the best in Pouilly can compete equally and successfully with Grand Cru Cote d’Or Burgundy, specifically Corton Charlemagne. As Andrew Jefford once penned, “Before, nobody believed Pouilly could come close to Corton Charlemagne – now nobody doubts it.”
Yannick is painstakingly conscientious in the vineyard so he can bring in fully ripe, spotless grapes. Nothing goes into the vat that he wouldn’t personally eat. His rigorous standards continue in the cellar, where only the absolute top cuvees get into this bottle. And it shows in this wine:
The 2017 vintage is an elegant wine with all the power and minerality of a fantastic white Burgundy. It breathes with aromas of pear, white peaches and acacia flowers. These are joined by subtle notes of honey, apricot and grapefruit. On the palate, flavors of peaches, fresh almond, hazelnut, quince and toast evolve with the swirling of the glass. There is density, complexity, hints of dried fruits and honeycomb that layer in with its rich and succulent finish. 2017 is a hallmark vintage for Burgundy, and with the coming of the tariffs on French wine, you should definitely load up – in a month, all Burgundy is going to be 25% more costly.
I love white Burgundy, and I adore Pouilly-Fuisse. Yet frankly, as prices have climbed, my interest has waned. So I was shocked when I saw the price of this Domaines des Granges. I couldn’t resist, and neither should you.