2018 Domaine Berthelemot Bourgogne Blanc Les Parties



Please let me to introduce you to a phenomenal rising star in Burgundy – Brigitte Berthelemot.

Brigitte comes from a winemaking family but left as a young girl to make her fortune in Paris as a financial manager. Which indeed, she did. Yet for all of that “past-life” success, she dreamed of owning her own winemaking estate. About a decade ago she got her chance. It was time for her to inherit her mother’s small family Burgundy estate and their neighbor, whom they had long made wine for, had no heir. Brigitte quickly bought both and founded Domaine Berthelemot.

Berthelemot came into being with a wealth of possibilities. First, two great winemakers, Yves Darviot and Jean Garaudet, agreed to stay on through the transition of their domaines. A state-of-the-art winery was established in the Cote d’Or. The vineyards were shifted to biodynamic processes.

The results are clear in this bottle – vivid and precise Chardonnay fruit character on the nose, a hint of that beautiful smoke character a la Coche-Dury; fresh and vibrant minerality on the palate backed up by an elegant touch of Chardonnay weight with a long, mineral finish. It is quintessential, delicious Puligny Montrachet in every way!

Now why do I say Puligny Montrachet (a higher designation) when the bottle is clearly labeled “Bourgogne Les Parties”? Alas, “Les Parties” doesn’t mean it’s time to get down and party (although drink enough and that may happen)—it’s a vineyard located within the village of Puligny-Montrachet. As such, it’s not within the wine appellation and can only carry the name “Bourgogne” (yes, I realize that sounds ridiculous, but blame the French). While technically this means it’s a “lesser” vineyard, Brigitte treats it as lovingly as the rest of her Puligny-Montrachets and it shows:

The wine is through-and-through classic Puligny-Montrachet: Warm spices, Earl Grey tea, touches of baked goods and a mulled fruit character are exceptionally pronounced on the nose. The palate is powerful, yet also focused, precise, graceful and totally balanced across its multifaceted fruit and mineral elements. Its gorgeous midpalate weight is supported by a vibrancy that will keep you coming back for more. Fresh now, and from the outstanding 2018 vintage, it’s great to enjoy on its own or alongside a roast chicken with gratineed vegetables.

As with most of our Burgundy offers, there is a very small amount of wine. We took all that we could, yet I am sure it won’t be enough. Don’t hesitate – get what you can. Cheers!