2018 Domaine Francois Confuron-Gindre Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Brulees
The world of Burgundy is a mystery.
The domaines themselves are as mysterious as the wines of the region. Why, I ask myself, do some domaines making the best Burgundy go unnoticed? I can’t solve that mystery for you, but I can tell you whose Burgundy you should be drinking, and which Burgundy costs half of what it should.
My favorite Burgundy producer you probably don’t know about is Domaine François Confuron-Gindre. The domaine is located in the heart of the limestone terroir of Burgundy, where they make out-of-this-world Vosne-Romanée. These are wines with a classic, thick, old vines texture. They’re wines the famous Burgundy guru Clive Coates has urged collectors to buy. And yet, they’re wines which are still under the radar.
But not for much longer.
Edouard Confuron, son of François, has taken over the domaine, and he has charged himself with a mission to introduce the family’s wines to Burgundy lovers everywhere. He may set himself one of the simplest missions in the world of wine. The 2018 François Confuron-Gindre Vosne-Romanée and Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Brûlées are as gorgeous as any the domaine has ever made.
The domaine’s village Vosne Romanée is made up of old vines fruit from ten, tiny parcels, including Aux Communes, Jacquines, Aux Réas, Champs Perdrix, Pré de la Folie, Vigneux, and Les Rouges du Dessus. This is the archetypal representative of Vosne Romanée. It’s lively, elegant, forceful, and serious, with deep, dark fruit, wild herbs, and great weight and persistence.
2018 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Brûlées
The Les Brûlées plot is located in the Combe Brûlées, a small, enclosed valley of vines aged more than 50 years. The microclimate of Les Brûlées alternates from the coolness of the valley floor to the heat emanating from the stones on its hillsides. The wine is super expressive on the nose, as well as its palate. It shows classic Vosne Romanée complexity and weight, with red and black cherries and peppery spices woven around a limestone minerality. Jasper Morris of Inside Burgundy gives the domaine’s Les Brûlées 93 to 95 points, describing the wine as “dense fresh purple” with “a very sensual nose.”
My drinking strategy for the Domaine François Confuron-Gindre Vosne-Romanée is the same as it is for the Les Brûlées: Buy as many as I can, decant one as soon as possible, and cellar the others for a few years. Because in a few years, these wines may cost twice as much as they do today.