2019 Domaine de Gaudets Morgon Cote du Py
Two paths diverged in the woodlands of Beaujolais. And most people took the one more traveled by.
The trodden path was easier, presenting itself at a steep decline into fame, fortune, and a vapid ichor. This is the path of Beaujolais Nouveau, and I have come to destroy it. Or at least spare you from drinking it.
Like the delicious neighborhood grilled burger stand that suddenly franchises and serves billions instead of serving you, Nouveau started as a great idea. Everybody needs a spot of cash, and Nouveau did just that – winemakers conscript the wine into carbonic machinations, the resultant wine is so limpid and vacuous that nobody could possibly be offended by it, the Parent Company invites in the dancing girls, and we all drink so much that by the time it comes around again next year, nobody really remembers how bad it actually was.
But fortunately, there is that other path in the woodlands of Beaujolais, and some peripatetic souls have traversed it. This path, the one less traveled, is that of Cru Beaujolais and Domaine des Gaudet Morgon Cote du Py.
Domaine des Gaudets Morgon is entirely within the Cru of Morgon, in Beaujolais. Here, Christophe Sornay is the fifth generation to take over the family vineyards. The Cote du Py (I’ve heard it Cote duh Pea!) is a little tiny section of Morgon that is entirely granite. And you see, that is the key to this Beaujolais’s magnificence. The granitic soil gives this wine a regal, powerful intensity, while still preserving its mineral-kissed fruit. Or, as Christophe describes it, “the fruit of a Beaujolais, the charm of a Bourgogne.”
And in the glass, it shows:
There is a bountifully expressive, gorgeous perfume to Morgon Beaujolais, and this is no exception. Spice, strawberries, hints at evergreen pour from the glass and fill the room with their beautiful scents. The palate is full and rounded, with downright pound-able drinking going on here, but also sporting Beaujolais’s characteristic snap and vigor. Light, easy, and supple, it pairs with everything from sushi (yes, really!) to fire-roasted steak from Birch. You won’t be able to stop drinking it. Perhaps the perfect beverage?
This fall, don’t fall for the French shenanigans known as Beaujolais Nouveau. Drink the real stuff, Cru Beaujolais, and savor it deeply.