Anselmi Capitel Foscarino 2014
In the history of Italian enology, Roberto Anselmi commands the titles of legend, cult winemaker and motorbiking rebel.
That’s no joke. Go to any Michelin-starred restaurant in Italy, and you’ll find multiple vintages of Anselmi wines. Speak to any Italian winemaker, and you’ll find Roberto’s skill deeply admired. And yes, he loves riding his motorbike up and down the hills of his native region of Soave.
After finishing school, Roberto returned to his father’s large bulk winery. In the poverty of post-war Italy, Roberto’s grandfather sold his winery’s best vineyards for the sake of his family’s survival. As a young man, Roberto began dreaming of buying back his grandfather’s old vineyards for the sake of making great Italian white wine. As Roberto remembers it, “I had a romantic vision of a land which inspires strong values, deep feelings, the right kind of traditions, and a way of living which is with the land and for the land. And so I began.”
He began roughly.
Roberto fought with his father about his plan to buy back the family’s old vineyards, as well as his ideas for the winery. He fought with Soave’s government about their laws and rules for making wine in the region. Ultimately, Roberto disobeyed his father and disregarded the government, and his legend as a bold and gifted winemaker was soon born.
Freed from the constraints of Italian law, Roberto began making wines that go beyond the quality anybody thought Soave capable of producing. The wines Roberto makes defy explanation: They’re magical expressions of grape, place, person and history. San Vincento is a deliciously fresh Soave that many of you have tasted; Foscarino Soave is from the famed eponymous single vineyard; and this Capitel Foscarino is named for Soave’s ancient shrines and vineyards.
Strap on your helmets because you’re in for a wild ride.
With every sip you take of this wine, it changes. First, you’ll taste stone fruits like white peach, apricot, nectarine and mango. Second, you’ll taste flowers — wisteria, heliotrope and lily. Third, you’ll taste rich, sweet and salty layers of roasted Marcona almonds. Finally, the finish is lengthy and mature. This Soave is mellow, gracious and ready to woo you while relaying the stories of its long, colorful life.