Boudignon Anjou Blanc 2017
I learned about Thibaud Boudignon via the wine trade. Justin Anthony, proprietor of AP Restaurant, was dying to get his hands on it and asked me to support him financially in his quest. I tried, but we failed. And I still had no idea.
I was lucky enough to dine with Becky Wasserman – famed importer of Burgundy that you’ll hear more about this week – and while she was a little bit high on codeine, she expressed resounding regret that she had not snached Boudignon when she had the chance.
And finally, New York importer Michael Skurnik, who started his wholesalership from the back of a Pinto 40 years ago and now runs a multi-million-dollar corporation told me—and this is a direct quote—“It’s wines like this that make me remember why I love the business. Just when you think you’ve had the best a region has to offer, a new discovery comes along to rock your world. Boudignon is such a discovery, with wines that speak so clearly of their place of origin. It is my humble opinion that there is no greater dry Chenin Blanc being made in the world today. Period.”
What can I add to this conversation?
First – I’m a retailor. I’m now educated enough that I actually took my Boudignon allocation. And because I bought early, I secured us a good price.
But more importantly – Second. I love good wine. I love great wine. And while rumor has it (totally truthfully) I’d drink anything, I like drinking the best. But I can’t afford the best every darn night of the week. And quite frankly, I also like loading up, so that when I say a wine can go 5, 10, 15, 20 years, then 20 years from now you, my boys and I can sit down and drink one. I can’t buy that kinda amortized cost with Chateau Latour, but I can with this.
Here is a Chenin of penetrating grace, persistence and clarity. I know Chenin can get funky and wooly, but that is not going on here. Thibaud graduated from Soucherie in Savennieres, which is one of the most tight and refined producers I know. There is a bit more apple skin here, a bit more roundedness on the palate, and a touch more presistence on the finish. It rocks my world. And I’m betting a couple of cases on it rocking my world for 20 more years.
As always with these terroir emails – allocation is tight. Let us know ASAP by replying to this email (or over the website)!