2019 Domaine J. Boulon Brouilly
The freshness of fruit, the exuberant vitality, the brightness of flavor, the pleasing ease on the palate. Is there a more charming wine than Cru Beaujolais? I don’t think so.
The Boulon family are sixth-generation family farmers with now three generations all working together: grandparents, parents, and young daughters. The domaine dates back to the 1850s, but bottling under their own name didn’t occur until 1973. For those of you who follow Beaujolais’ crus closely, you already know the reason why. ’73 would be right around the time when the now-famous “Gang of Four” producers took the different path of naturally made, no additive, traditionally farmed Beaujolais – the exact opposite of those producers who cashed in on Nouveau.
The Boulon family quietly followed down this path of natural winemaking, calmly expanding their domaine with each generation until now, when they finally own a very special slice of Brouilly.
Brouilly is at the southern end of Beaujolais’ crus, and in the loving hands of the Boulons it produces a wine of deep structure and gorgeous concentration, all the while remaining at alcohol levels that aren’t going to knock you off your feet. On the nose there are loads of ripe cherries, black raspberries and Brouilly’s classic wet granitic flavor that melds seamlessly into its fruit. You won’t believe it, but this is a Beaujolais that can benefit from decanting – even “little” wines can come with big flavor! It hails from the 2017 vintage, so this is great to drink now but don’t worry – and do believe me – this can easily go 10 more years in your cellar!
The Boulons were so lucky to get this little slice of heaven in Brouilly. But little indeed it is – just 120 cases were made for the world. We held onto a small stash and now is the time to unleash its joy. So let’s share a little joie de vivre, even if it’s from afar.