Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto Dogliani 2019
From the sweeping panoramic view of Dogliani all of Barolo reveals itself – the great crus of Cannubi, Castiglione, Monfortino and Terlo. It is an extraordinary site, and it’s got a little secret, too – Dolcetto.
Dolcetto is “the little sweet grape” of Piedmont. “Sweet” as in you are sweet on Mr. Scavino’s daughter Enrica who lives next door, not that the wine tastes sugary. Dolcetto creates wines of deep, luxurious red velvet color with aromas of raspberries and violets, black truffles, anise and roasted salted almonds oiled with Italian herbs. The palate is as generous as an Italian red wine should be, with gorgeous fruit character on the front of the palate and a gentle hug of tannins at the end. There is a reason this grape is loved: it loves you back with all its deliciousness.
Dogliani, the vineyard (known as a “Cru” in Piedmont), is the one of the three best areas for growing Dolcetto. Situated high above the hillsides where Nebbiolo cannot grow, it captures the ideal combination of soil, exposure and climate to perfectly ripen Dolcetto. One man, Luigi Einaudi, recognized the greatness of this site around the turn of the Twentieth Century, and bought a parcel.
Einaudi, locally referred to as “the professor”, became famous in Dogliani for his wines – soaringly aromatic, of immaculate structure and poise, he believed in sharing the greatness of his Dolcetto. But history intervened, and most Italians now remember him for resisting the Fascists, charting a path towards Italian democracy post World War Two, and becoming the First President of the Italian Republic in 1948.
But through his entire working life Luigi never missed a harvest at Dogliani. And that should tell you something about this Dolcetto – it’s amazing. Einaudi’s Dogliani Dolcetto opens with classical aromas of harvest ripe raspberries, greeting the nose with soft, echoing notes of heartsease and suckling pig, stuffed with Alba truffles, roasting near the hearth. The palate is full of black fruits and ripe, integrated Italian tannins, finishing with a sweet note of herbs. Drink this now at a well provisioned table.