Michel Bouzereau Bourgogne Cote d’Or Blanc 2017
Michel Bouzereau is an imminent figure in Burgundy and one of the top producers in Meursault.
Don’t believe me?
Burgundy authority and Master of Wine Clive Coates named Domaine Michel Bouzereau one of the “best cellars for these crus. [They are] racy, stylish wines which can be held longer than most.””
Jasper Morris, Master of Wine notes, “These wines offer very good value for money and are benchmark examples. His is a voice to be heard.”
And finally, Alan Meadows of Burghound says of Michel Bouzereau: “As the scores and commentaries confirm, I was quite impressed with what I found here in 2017. Sophisticated. Excellent.”
Indeed, Michel Bouzereau is a Burgundian force to be reckoned with. He was president of the Burgundy Growers Union and is a vocal advocate of traditional winemaking.
“Traditional” gets bandied about quite a lot these days. What does it mean? Michel ferments in cask and gives the wines a long elevage on the lees. He is determined that his wines taste and smell of wine. New wood is present to support the wine, but only in the background.
His son, Jean-Baptise, respects his father’s traditionalist practices but has also updated the domaine in his recent tenure. He brings a freshness and liveliness to the wines which, to this palate, only enhances their appeal. And wow, is this wine a knockout:
The nose leads with lifts of floral – acacia blossom, honeysuckle and lilies. It is quickly joined with fruit notes of white peach, starfruit, quince and touch of yellow apple. All of that is anchored to a classic Burgundy underpinning of chalk and saline minerality. The palate is vivid, with a focused purity that gives way to a creamy (but not overdone) textural element. It finishes with a fineness of medium-weight flavors, effortlessly expressed. In a word, lovely.
For years here at Waterford, we have been selling both domaine and negociant Burgundies. Almost always our argument in favor of domaine Bourgogne (Rouge or Blanc) follows a similar logic: producer X only has land in Meursault, therefore even his “generic” Bourgogne Blanc is of Meursault quality.
Or as Jasper Morris notes about Bouzereau: “Their Bourgogne Blanc comes from vineyards which are within the boundaries of Meursault. Such generic Burgundies are excellent choices for good value, especially as this wine is treated with the same care, attention and barrel ageing as its more senior brethren.”
With the 2017 vintage we may have finally gotten our way. The French government created a new appellation, Bourgogne Cote d’Or, for wines such as these. Meaning it’s a much more restrictive appellation, supporting those producers who are making something of quality far above regional Bourgogne.
However, as with most of our domaine-based Burgundies, production is small and allocations are tight. Please let us know as soon as possible your interest in this exquisite wine.