Oddero Barolo 2016
An argument for you –
“The most rewarding vintages are not always mutually inclusive with the perfect harvest. On the contrary, it’s the more challenging vintages that can often showcase the finer nuances of a certain varietal or the skillset of a particular vigneron.” That’s Sotheby’s Wine talking about Barolo’s harvest in 2014.
Let me dig a little deeper – “The thinking here is that the offerings of Barolo and Barbaresco from 2014 are not as powerful as the examples from recent years such as 2013 and 2010. But does that mean that the 2014 vintage was not a success? I disagree quite strongly.” That’s Forbes Magazine.
And finally, just one more quote – “2014 was exactly like 1974, 1971 and 1964, vintages that today are perfectly preserved and are making the reputation of Barolo today.” And that’s Lucca Currado, owner and winemaker of another famous Barolo house, Vietti.
Why do I bring these all to your attention? First, because I agree with them. And second, it means I can get you set up with a triumphant, top Barolo, at a great price that drinks well now, and will continue drinking well into the far future.
The Barolo? Oddero.
Oddero is a long-standing and much-admired Barolo family, but you may not have heard of them. And that’s understandable. To those who know them, we tend to squirrel away every ounce we get, hoarding it for our future selves. In a more serious historical vein, Oddero was one of the first Barolo families to bottle and sell their own wine, starting in the early 19th century. Their wine has always been considered fantastic, but because they were selling it themselves, it mostly went to friends in Italy, with a small balance to Europe and America. Because they are so small, those who received bottles became fanatical collectors and even to this day, Oddero virtually always sells out the day they offer a new vintage. I’ve been tracking down Oddero for years, and with this vintage, another client stepped out of line and I was able to snap up an (albiet small) allocation.
If there was equivalent sensory experience in smelling and viewing, Oddero’s Barolo would be Van Gogh’s haystacks. Each time you put your nose in the glass, subtle changes have occurred, bringing into perspective flavors, dimension, and transition. The pleasure doesn’t stop there, as the palate is a vivid flavor and texture experience of cherry, orange peel, sage, and Italian spices. But more to the point – there is a deep purity of Barolo-ness here. If one truly wanted to know why Barolo is called the Wine of Kings, it’s right here to be discovered in this bottle.
Yes, as you may guess from the above quotes, 2014 was a hard one in Barolo. But to my palate, mind, and experience with aging Barolo, it’s outstanding now and will continue to be for years to come. I usually don’t get allocated any Oddero Barolo. This year, I got a little, and I encourage you to enjoy.