Paul Pernot Bourgogne Blanc “Special Long-Aged Cuvée” 2017
Here it is, the one I was waiting for.
You’ve had Paul Pernot’s wines before. Indeed, he’s the master of Puligny Montrachet, with all of his vineyard holdings planted entirely in that village. So you know his Bourgogne Blanc never was, and certainly isn’t, a “basic Bourgogne.” And now it gets even better. But it gets better.
Paul’s winery is downslope in Puligny-Montrachet, in a section where the water table is so high that he can’t build cellars. Consequently, he always releases his wines very fresh, right out of the gates. (This is one of the reasons I usually hold them back for six months or so.) With this Special Cuvée, however, he held the wine in barrel (no new oak, all used) for an extra six months. It’s his way of experimenting in the cellar to make his wines even better, and what an amazing experiment it is.
There’s amazing complexity, definition and purity to this wine. It’s like it captures the essence of standing in Batard-Montrachet at harvest, the wind gently wafting through the Chardonnay, the smell of the fruit, earth and absolute living vitality filling the air. It’s gorgeous drinking stuff right now, and it’ll drink just as beautifully for the next five years.
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