Sabine Godme Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Champagne
This email is short, because the message is simple – this is marvelous Champagne.
“Godme is one of the most phenomenal growers in all of Champagne. There is a tenderness in rapport with the vines, a solicitude for them, that is unusual even among the Greatest French Vignerons.” – Becky Wasserman
Perhaps this quote doesn’t rock you to your Champagne core. But it should. This is Becky Wasserman, a woman who has, for more than 40 years, imported, nurtured, and led the Burgundy industry in the U.S. Her portfolio has remained second to none in all of those 40 years. And here she is, offering a stupendous complement to a grower she doesn’t even work with!
If you don’t take my word for it, take Becky’s—this Champagne is phenomenal.
Sabine Godme – fifth generation vine grower and winemaker, certified biodynamic, 100% Grand Cru, 100% Pinot Noir, all natural yeast fermentation, no malolactic fermentation, low dosage so the fruit isn’t covered in sugar, long elevages enhanced by the addition of reserve wines up to nine years old (longer than Dom Perignon).
Here is the apex of small grower—nay, any kinda winemaker—Champagne. There should be no doubt – there is magic inside this bottle:
The nose opens with aromas of cherry puree, brown sugar spices typical of Pinot-based Champagnes, and hints of red apple. The palate is as a Blanc de Noirs Champagne should be: fully expressive of the Pinot Noir grape with its rounded fruit character, but also a direct and seamless line of flavor across the palate, finishing with a lingering sense of minerality and depth.
And, to top it all off, we procured this at a shockingly low price. I’m guessing here is why – the Godme family underwent the typical Napoleonic inheritance practices of France. Brother and sister parted ways in 2015, splitting up the domaine. I don’t know if it was amiable or not. What I do know is that brother charges $80 a bottle. Why sister charges far less, I can’t imagine. But once I tasted it, the imagining was done because it was time for some seriously good drinking.