Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Pink grapefruit flesh and Meyer lemon pith expound as high notes from the glass; warm notes of ripe yellow stone fruits – apricots and peaches – soon follow. These are surrounded and gracefully etched by a diaphanous mineral quality that brings a sparkle like a spring of fresh mountain water. The palate is layered with an overture of fruit: citrus and tropical, centering on passion fruit but also diving into gooseberry, lemon verbena, and orange blossom. Yet there is still more – that purity and calcium sense of chalk like you find in Sancerre. Those of you who drink Sancerre know that it can age well and that is true here as well – this bottle drank beautifully day one, but grew and grew on days two, three, four and five. That to me means this is cellar worthy – it’s got ample time and will continue to grow in your loving cellar.
How did Seresin accomplish this remarkable New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc? Well, in a sea of Sauvignon Blanc that is awash with labels, there is a vast separation between those who grow grapes and those who make wine. In fact, Marlborough alone has almost 300 Sauvignon labels yet only a handful of operating wineries.
Seresin is the exception, and by far the exception – they are firmly organic and biodynamic – and one of the few in Marlborough. Now you may not care a whit about biodynamics (and I would certainly agree that none of its farming claims are actually scientifically proven) but what I can tell you is that every biodynamic farmer I’ve met spends far more time tending their vineyards than conventional farmers. The best possible fruit quality going in leads to the greatest expression of wine coming out.
It is worth saying again – here, to my palate, is one of the ultimate expressions of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, showcasing all the vigor and depth of Sancerre with all the joyful fruit expression of Marlborough. In the past, I’ve sold this wine as high as $30 a bottle and thought I was delivering a great