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Nikolaihof Hefeabzug Gruner Veltliner

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Country/State Austria

Region Wachau


Vineyard/Proprietary Hefeabzug

Type Gruner Veltliner

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Although I don’t like to be outside, I once took a very short vacation to a farm in Illionis. A functioning farm, not a hobby farm – pigs, chickens, buried septic tanks, trash hauling in a Ford F-350 Super Duty, bugs, manure, crowbars, and sweating on the farmhouse porch, penning epistles like I was E.B. White.

And day after day, I had Nikolaihof’s Hefeabzug Gruner Veltliner with me, like a devoted Border Collie making sure all remained steady.

Hefeabzug – it’s always confounded me as a wine. I’ve never doubted it was great, yet it’s always so original, so singular, so nothing like anything else that it never fits in my gestalt. I don’t know where to put it. The base flavors are Gruner Veltliner-ish, but then they expand from there. I don’t drink it that often because of this – what to pair with it? How to drink it? Why drink it?

And at the farm, these questions didn’t matter. Hefeabzug fit seamlessly, drank deliciously, and just seemed to meld into the environment. As one friend and drinker put it upon finishing his fourth glass, “It smells like soil and silage, and I can’t get enough.” Nikolaihof is the world’s first biodynamic winery, and the romantic drinker in me likes to think that the wine knew it was home. So that, ladies and gentlemen, is my appeal to you for the Gruner Veltliner – if you want to taste the lifeblood of humanity and the spirit of Mother Nature bound together as one, this is the bottle.