Domaine Gallois Gevrey Chambertin La Justice
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When I was first learning about Gevrey-Chambetin I was taught that there was a “consensus on the ‘classical’ style of the wines from this village: structured, woodsy, darker-toned, ‘masculine.’’’ And while I’ve learned that not all Gevreys are this way, our wine today is the absolute embodiment of this regal, powerful, muscular Gevrey-Chambertin style – frankly, it’s one of the best that I have ever had in this style, competing with the likes of Rousseau.
If you haven’t heard of Domaine Dominique Gallois, I think that is for two very good reasons. First, his wines weren’t represented in much of the U.S. Second, this domaine is tiny. And I say that with the understanding that most of Burgundy’s domaines are tiny. When we drove up for our tasting appointment this one was shockingly small – the basement of Dominique’s small farmhouse – or about 20 barrels of wine a year.
But everyone in Gevrey-Chambertin knows Dominiique – his main job is farming for all kinds of different producers in the village. There he is considered a vineyard sage, a master at Pinot Noir in Gevrey. To me it makes perfect sense that one so revered by his own peers should also be making such stellar wine. They aren’t cheap, but they’re definitely worth it. Here is the rundown:
The Gevrey Chambertin La Justice is one single parcel from the eponymously named vineyard. This vineyard is famous for being the exception that proves the rule - set on the "wrong side" of the R74, it a singular vineyard that makes powerhouse Pinot Noir. It sets the style and tone of the estate by being structured, densely layered with dark fruits, and muscular.
The Premier Cru is a blend in 2019 of Les Goulots, Petit Cazertiers and Combes aux Moines (note, all Premier Crus). Production was so low in 2019 that he couldn't produce seperate cuvees and instead blended them all together. Made with old vines dating back to 1932, on the palate it has layers of rich, dark fruit and round warmth. This wine is a powerhouse with intense tannic energy and drive.
Grand Cru Charmes Chambertain. In a local tasting conducted in the village among all the producers of Charmes Chambertain, Dominique’s was voted the best. Think about that for a moment! The producers of Charmes voted this #1. The vineyard was planted in 1910 and has never been replanted. It is, as you can guess, simply amazing.