Fakin Malvazija 2022

Going under the Krka Bridge; our captain lit a cigarette, stared upwards and said “Yeah, in Yugoslavia we had a different Communism - a communism that built bridges to last.” And indeed, that is all true - even though communism and Yugoslavia are long gone, the bridges have stood the test of time. And to reverse the old joke, if you believe this, I’ve got a wine to sell you!

This wine is from a place you probably don’t know, from a grape you’ve probably never heard of, and it is so flavorful, so fun and so utterly delicious that you need to jump in and give it a try. Let me introduce you to one of the most exciting places to be drinking wine these days - Central Europe. 

First off, what I grew up being taught was “Eastern Europe”, i.e. behind the Iron Curtain - those people prefer to be called Central Europe (it’s the weird dumbos in Belarus and Russia who are Eastern European). Central Europeans hate Russians, and they hate being associated with them by being called Eastern European. 

Second, there is a longstanding tradition of high-quality winemaking across much of these countries, quashed of course by Russian communism. 

Third, one of the many beautiful revolutionary things after the change in governments, is the return of artisanal, hand-crafted winemaking. Not all Central European countries are the same, and not all of their winemakers have embraced it, but on the Istrian peninsula, you’ve got a hotbed of beautiful new wineries and their wines. 

I often get asked about wine tourism - where to go, whom to visit - and what I’ll answer for you straightaway is to go to the Istrian peninsula. At the crossroads of Italy, Croatia, and Slovenia, the scenery is gorgeous, everything is cheap, and the culture is Mediterranean. 

Perhaps that is why the wine in Istria is so good - but it probably also is the terroir and everything associated with it - bold new winemakers, old vines, and perfect climate. Our example today is Fakin’s Malvazija. 

Marko Fakin is the young man reinventing his family’s tradition of hand-crafted winemaking. Malvazija is the major white grape of Croatia (and other places like Italy as well). In Marko’s hands, Malvazija delivers an airy scent of lemongrass, orange blossoms and neroli. The wine strikes impeccable balance on the palate upon the first sip with a silky, lush mouthfeel countered by brisk acidity and flavors of Meyer lemon peel, green almonds, cherry blossoms and light notes of honey.  It has rich mouthfeel, yes, and also an almost cream-like viscosity, but all the while it stays refreshing. The finish is bright and fresh, lingering with a pleasing essence of lemon curd and wet stones.

I purposefully left the subheading in its odd translation, just because I thought many of you might use Crimson Dynamo Russia voice when reading it. Or maybe that’s just me. In any case, for Marko and his winery, the quote is serious - this wine just won Gold at the Decanter awards, and a quote from an international news agency that he is the next big thing, was a heartwarming and deep acknowledgement of how far he and Croatia have come. 

I know everything about this wine probably strikes you as “weird” but trust me, in wine, the farthest-flung explorations often lead to the most magnificent treasure. This one is just that.