Lamothe Bergeron Haut Medoc Bordeaux
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We love our Bordeaux here at Waterford especially when it is (to our palates) right at the start of full maturity – showing the graceful fruit character of its harvest, just bare hints of savory spice from its barrel fermentation long ago, and entering mineral and earthy notes from the years in bottle, a supple and completely integrated midpalate, and a long, lingering and ever-evolving finish. Yes, we love mature Bordeaux at Waterford and we’ve got a beauty for you today – Chateau Lamoth Bergeron Cru Bourgeois from the Haut Medoc.
Chateau Lamothe Bergeron may not be the first name you think of when we say Bordeaux, but it does have a little bit of a shine to it – for many connoisseurs, it is one of the most notable of the Cru Bourgeois set in the Haut Medoc, nestled between Margaux and Saint Julien. Dating back to the 18th century, it was reinvigorated with new management and investment in 2009. Yes, it is fairly small scale compared to the like of some chateaux, but for us this means that it is also hand-crafted, delivering a beautiful bottle at an exceptional value.
This sumptuous Grand Vin is actually led by Cabernet (50% of the blend). I say “actually” on purpose – most Cru Bourgeois at this price point now offer far more Merlot in the blend for its early maturing value. Here, there is of course enough Merlot (48%) to give the wine a lovely richness across the midpalate with wonderful black plum and cassis fruit. But it’s the Cabernet that has brought us to this mile marker at six years old. Now, with the bottle age the Cabernet has opened up and its gorgeous generosity is on full display: graphite, pencil lead, black cherry fruit, raspberries with touches of tobacco draw forth in an ever changing and complex display of flavors. It unfolds beautifully in the glass and will have you thinking of what beautiful French meal you could make with it – a beef Bourgogne perhaps? Or maybe Tournedos Rossini?
As noted, you can drink this bottle quite satisfactorily right now but that doesn’t mean it won’t age. To my palate it has a long life ahead, with 10 more years on without a worry. Which, to my mind, is classic Bordeaux: Only here, in Bordeaux, can you find perfectly mature wine that will still go much longer, and a price that allows you to cellar it in cases. Cheers and enjoy.