Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc Les Setilles 2023

The thing about Les Sétilles is that it’s never just “Bourgogne Blanc.” It’s the great Burgundy democratizer — the wine that lets you slip into the limestone dreams of Puligny and Meursault without surrendering half your paycheck. And in 2022, Olivier Leflaive has bottled one of the most quietly thrilling editions in years: a wine that tastes like the Côte de Beaune’s greatest hits album disguised in weekday-friendly clothing.

From the first pour, the 2022 radiates ripe orchard fruit — think pear tart, baked apple, even a hint of peach skin — all dusted with lemon zest and a brush of white flowers. Then the Côte de Beaune signatures rise: Meursault’s warm hazelnut and gentle pastry cream, Puligny’s chalky snap and quiet salinity, a little breeze of crushed limestone that reins in the vintage’s natural amplitude. Leflaive balances it with such precision that you never lose freshness; the wine moves with a relaxed, confident glide, the texture plush but never heavy.

What makes Les Sétilles so irresistible in 2022 is that it delivers the comfort and curve of a sunny vintage without sacrificing the detail that Burgundy lovers chase. It’s the familiar insider handshake — the wine that lets you sit at the Côte de Beaune table without the Côte de Beaune tariff — but this year, the warmth only amplifies the charm.

Pair it with roast chicken, creamy pastas, seared scallops, or the simple luxury of a glass after work when you want something that feels like a small reward. This is white Burgundy in its most welcoming register: generous, glowing, and unmistakably Leflaive.